Top Indian bridal designers have one thing in common, their love for zardosi. Kutchi work, Rajasthani lehariyas and block prints are crafts that were riding high in fashion industry for some time, but zardosi is a trend which never seems to die out. From Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla to Manish Malhotra every Indian bridal designer is truly obsessed with zardosi we are here to incur, WHY?
Zardosi is an ancient art of embroidering beautiful designs with gold and silver threads, embedding precious stones amid the intricate designs adding a gleam and richness, fit to suit the bygone royalties of India. Originally zardosi was a craft patronised by the local Kings which reached to its peak during the Mughal era in India. With advent of British and constant turbulence in the country the royal embroidering art lost its patronage and washed out gradually.
The craft stepped out from its years of darkness when many fashion designers at the onset of a rising fashion industry of India revived zardosi and presented it on the ramps. Ritu Kumar, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla were the first designers who revived and widely featured zardosi in their designs.
With the rise of Indian bridal industry in the past decade, Indian bridal designers have created a plethora of designs adorned with zardosi. Every Indian bridal designer features intricate work of zardosi in lehengas, dupattas and even menswear collections now feature zardosi. The trend became a riot and now bridal wear cannot be imagined without zardosi.
Zardosi did make it into vogue, but the modern zardosi is quite different from its original version. Since the Indian bridal fashion industry does not cater solely to kings and queens anymore, gold and silver have been replaced by copper wires and semi-precious stones by cheaper alternates, but the charm, the awe striking glam of zardosi still shimmers when implemented wisely.
Zardosi popularity is attributed by its flexibility of blending in an eclectic range of fabrics and crafts. It could be modified in an appliqué fashion or simply combined with other kinds of embroideries. Manish Malhotra’s signature style oozes subtle concoction of zardosi with Kashmiri thread embroidery, evolving a whole new class of creative application of crafting combinations.
Another reason for the art being in boom is the means of its accessibility and price. Original zardosi work needed years of labour to craft single apparel but the mechanised era has revolutionised its accessibility. Fact remains the same that nothing can beat original magnificence of handmade zardosi, but it’s cheaper counterpart flourished in Indian markets.
The story of zardosi and its obsession is not limited to Indian Bridal designers; its astounding gleam is blazing the designs of international fashion brands like Louis Vuitton and Channel who are in a constant demand of authentic zardosi work to team up with their designs. None the less the trend of zardosi and Indian bridal designers obsession for it is here to stay and prosper for its mesmerising charm which is unlikely to fade again.
Sources: Facebook, Vogue