India Couture Week flagged off on 15th July 2014, at Delhi. That the only show the first day of this Indian Fashion Week had, was Sabyasachi Mukherjee says a lot about how much respect this stalwart commands in the fashion industry.
After the launch of his lavish new store launch at Kala Ghoda earlier this month, we were keeping our eyes peeled for what this designer would have in store for us. And does Sabya ever disappoint! He had created not just designer apparel fit for a couture show, but an entire experience. The theme of his show was 'the old world charm of the city of Firozabad'. Hence, he brought the vintage charm of the old Mughal city alive by creating a set like that of a vintage train. The set of this Indian railway car was so rich and royal, there were luggage trunks and coaches and models weaving in and out of them.
The line obviously had some of Sabya's best elements in tow – elegance, subtlety and feminine grace.These bespoke ensembles for women included high blouses, churidars, sarees, lehengas, shararas, jackets and anarkalis, bijoux blouses and more. His colour palette included pastels such as ivory, apricot, beige, peach, tan and pistachio with guest appearances made by burgundy, crimson, black and deep green.
There were net lehengas, hand embroidered sarees, crystal embellished blouses, resham work, and more. There were stunning combinations such as zardosi work on the backdrop of velvet and encrusted sleeves with floral prints. There were velvet pallus and toulle pleats taking our breath away. The silhouette was figure flattering with a hint of feminine flow.
Admittedly, the apparel for men was meant for the grooms. However, it was a bit too artsy and embellished for our taste. Although, this seems like a perfect choice for fashion forward grooms who double up as bold, risk takers. There were bandhgalas, Nehru jackets, ankle length trousers, churidaars and jackets in general hues of tangerine, cherry, peach, beige, etc. There were co-ords, bold prints, crystal embellishments, intricate embroideries, and some resham work too.
The men looked untouched by years of urbane grooming and fashion slamming. They oozed vintage charm and looked like their yesteryear avatars – dapper and dashing.
The hair and makeup for women was in keeping with the theme. With either middle or side parting their hair was slicked back for maximum makeup impact. Although minimal, makeup was statementesque with HD eyebrow game, clever usage of bronzer and wine coloured lipsticks. This contrasted beautifully with the pastel of their apparel. The jewellery was kept in limits with stud earrings and the occasional appearance of a choker and a tiny sling bag.
On the other hand, hair and makeup for men was extremely aristocratic bearing the time period it was catering to. Subtle clothes were paired with men with a decent spattering of a stubble, well-behaved hair and a clean, polished look. While the louder, bolder pieces were complemented by a full facial fuzz, and slicked hair for a hint of traditional severity.
The showstopper unsurprisingly was Rani Mukerji, who has been a long time loyalist, supporter and friend of the slightly reclusive designer. She wore a pastel beige coloured saree with crystal embellishements and gorgeous zari work. She contrasted the same with a quarter-sleeved black blouse, making her look even more radiant than usual. She chose to go simple with just the earrings. And as for her hair, she had side swept it into a messy bun and pinned a flower making her look like a right retro diva.
A gorgeous collection, everything about this line made us look at life in wonderful sepia lens.