After an entire week of fashion fabulousness at the Lakme Fashion Week it’s time to slip out of the couture, take off those high heels, dust off the sparkle and get to the serious business of decoding this season’s biggest emerging trends. No easy task this considering the mind-boggling array of luscious creativity brought forth by established and emerging designers alike. But as with most fashion weeks this one too saw some recurring trends across designer shows indicating an obvious shift for this season.
This year’s fashion week outings had two major themes that seem to have permeated through in nearly every designer’s collection – Acceptability and Sustainability. The first was seen through a relaxing of silhouettes to encompass fashion for women of all shapes and sizes not just for size zero clothes horses splashed across the media. The second was a resurgence in the aim to provide livelihood and support to indigenous Indian artisans. Ethnic fabrics and prints like chanderi, bandhej, shibori, ajrak and others were widely used in many shows lending credence to the efforts of the Indian fashion industry to promote traditional craftsmanship.
There was an abundance of lehenga-choli versions as is quite expected for the Autumn/Winter Festive version of LFW aimed specifically at India’s burgeoning market for larger than life weddings and Diwali celebrations. But apart from these common threads there were definitely some other standout trends that could not be missed.
A new twist in the tale of Indian fashion’s love affair with all things intrinsically nationalistic was the use of folk art as prints on garments. The Chitravali Collection by Gaurang depicted the Kalamkari paintings of Ajanta’s frescos. The master artists who originally created these paintings used natural produce like flowers, barks, roots, pomegranate seeds, iron etc. to infuse colour into their works. Similarly Neha Agarwal used her collection ‘Mithila at SoBo’ to bring Madhubani Folk Art global recognition.
Folk Art Prints on Various Outfits
No longer restricted to little girl’s tutus, princess dresses, dupattas and semi-transparent sleeves, sheer stiff fabrics like tulle and organza got an experimental edge this season. Monika and Nidhii’s frosted green and blue lehenga embellished with resham, ruffles and scallops took those fluffy pink cupcake dresses to seriously sophisticated levels. Anushree Reddy’s layered floor length skirt paired with a zardosi-embroidered jacket also proved tulle is putty in the hands of skilled tailoring. Shreeya Somaiya gave the trend the perfect rock-chick vibe by throwing on a denim jacket with sheer cuffs over a red floral embellished gown.
Tulle and Organza Outfits
There was lots more edgy action with the judicious use of fringe and fur across collections. Ritu Kumar, Sonaakshi Raaj, Manish Malhotra and Ridhi Mehra each presented their own take on the trend with collections dripping in embroidered tassels, appliques and scalloped bodices. Arpita Mehta used knotted clusters with angel sleeves while Amit Aggarwal showcased a braided blouse finished with tassel detailing. Before you shudder about wearing fur in India’s fairly mild winter it isn’t about piling it on like the Night’s Watch. Falguni and Shane Peacock used it ingeniously as patches in crystal-encrusted gowns as did Manish Malhotra as a popping accent on a broach in an all black ensemble.
Fringe and Fur Accented Outfits
This massively popular International trend also made an appearance on Indian runways fused with an ethnic swirl. Midriff cinching belts in leather, crochet, metal, lace or zari can be used to accessorise the waist on saris, skirts, lehengas, dresses, palazzos and more. Doodlage’s take includes vampy leather corset bodices. Ritu Kumar expertly wields the idea for structured layering. SVA and Masaba’s waist belt accented saris and skirts were extremely similar while the AMOH Collection by Jade showcased a dhoti with an embellished belt.
Waist Belt Detailing Outfits
Last season’s big trend – The Cape, isn’t going anywhere this season except for a bit of a nip tuck and facelift. This time it’s all about sari cloaks and waist capes. Pooja Hegde played muse to Sonaakshi Raaj in a waist cape jumpsuit as Shailesh Singhania injected a traditional dose with a gold and pink embroidered cape styled with a fuchsia saree. Hardika Gulati went Avant Garde with a sleeve cape black jumpsuit as did Jade’s pairing of capelets with draped dhoti trousers.
Cape Style Outfits
Sources: Liveinstyle.com, Dnaindia.com, Aashiandco.com, Hindustantimes.com