The third day of the Lakme Fashion Week was dedicated to the Indian Textile Day celebrating the weaves and crafts of the country. The first of the six workshops held at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2012 had an eminent panel of designers and experts who spoke on the subject, The resurgence of Indian Weaves and Crafts - nurturing the growth of Indian Textile Heritage.
The audience at 'The Source' listened to observations and suggestions from the panellists with rapt attention. Moderating the discussion was Maximiliano Modesti, fashion entrepreneur based between Paris and Mumbai for the past 15 years.
The discussion was based upon the nurturing and modernising of preserved indian passion in unique crafts. Rethinking fashion, as Krishna Mehta put it, India has a wealth of arts and crafts with people making beautiful things in villages but times have changed. He called for the craftsmanship to be adapted into new technologies and nurtured with education from early ages.
Further points to support this, designers stressed on the importance of fashion and the cultural roots of the region highlighting the fact that their expertise is what gives strength to their fashion within the world. With a clear call to their government and organizations to support the creation of the market.
"The feel for the country is lacking. People want to make money in a short time so short cuts are used and challenges are not taken up. Bring in the master craftsmen for workshops on vegetable dyes and fabrics. Study the history and crafts of India. We spend lakhs on foreign goods but not on a Jamdani scarf," she bemoaned.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee was more vocal and hard hitting when he stated frankly The biggest problem is fashion education. Only 1/20 of the education in fashion schools is dedicated to Indian textiles. Most institutes emulate foreign curriculum but take the example of MacDonald who brought in the aloo tikki. Students are not aware of the basis of a sari and want to design for a foreign client without knowing what that client wants. The reality of fashion lies in India's cultural diversity, he emphasized.
Praful Shah revealed that Garden creates designs which will sell all over the world, So we go for volume and the mass market. Bibhu Mohapatra who is catering to a global market, has been coming to India often and is involved with a project in Orissa has tapped into his roots but would like to find a group to connect with craft for his work. I went to the villages in Orissa for a project but was discouraged because being in New York I needed the Indian craft there. He hoped that Indian designers find their individuality.
Millions of rupees worth of Sabyasachi's copies are sold and the designer stated that he was happy to create the ripple and let the other vultures come in and sustain the market. Today people are looking or quicker faster solutions. The Paithani looks like a Jamdani and craft is left without a real root. Tampering with the crafts system, damages the crafts and the eco system, he remarked. Seth Petchers hoped that the farmers will be given a voice. Cotton is the root of India and farmers are part of the textile industry.
Darshan Shah gave a great clarion call when she stated, Make the mission statement use as many hands as possible so that the weavers and crafts can survive. Don't piggy back on other designers but set values, principals and nurture crafts and weavers.