Winter brides will not have to bear icy winds this season for designers are not just focussing on ethnic workmanship but also keeping in mind the chilling weather while creating wedding silhouettes. That the new age girls go for only those dresses that they can carry off well is a known thing. What’s new is that they are now doing away with heavy-weight lehengas, thanks to our constantly evolving fashion designers.
The new trend
Kaftans, which have been popular as a wedding dress only in Pakistan so far, are now making their way into the Indian fashion industry as well. Confirms designer Jattin Kochhar who has come up with kaftans that are similar to ponchos in look and feel. “But these kaftans are stitched and designed in such a way that they cover the legs too, unlike the ponchos. The most popular colour combinations in these are white with rainbow embroidery, black with silver needlework and the grouping of white-black and red-black,” Kochhar says. What’s more interesting is that Kochhar’s wedding garments have been made in such a way that the brides can wear them to a discothèque as well. “If a young bride is planning to go clubbing after the ceremony, she can wear a churidaar dress without leggings and dupatta,” he adds. Agrees another designer Kunal S, “The kaftans are most definitely the new lehengas this season. I have used semi-precious stones and a lot of intricate detailing on my bridal kaftans.”
Changed colour palette
Forget marriages, shades of red, maroon and pink don’t even make it to pre-wedding parties these days; and the hunt of wacky colours for now has stopped at off white and a mix of bright red, green, magenta and maroon. Sky blue and green patterns are also doing the rounds. For men, on the other hand, sherwanis are being made keeping in mind the metrosexual preferences. Instead of pastel, designers are opting for dark shades like brown, black and dark blue.
Designer Ritu kumar is using gota of varied colours this time for her bridal lehengas, “Gota work is something which is relatively new and very in nowadays. I am also using it for creating other ethnic dresses also, like salwar-kameez, churidaars and even evening gowns. For bridal, people are looking for a mixture of modern and traditional designs and gota, I think, fits the bill.”
The luxury quotient
Tarun Tahiliani this time has come up with a fusion of European designs and Indian workmanship to establish new trends. The designer, who will be presenting the third edition of Bridal Couture Exposition starting from July 9, will focus on the finest of details. “The aim is to present Indian heritage in the most contemporary manner. The highlight will be on gowns that take inspiration from Italian silhouettes and structuring. “When it comes to structure and cuts, I feel nothing can beat the Italian designs. But the work that is done on the gowns is very Indian — zardozi, chikankari, dabka and other Indian embroideries. There are Swarovski crystals and golden and silver threads also.
Our artisans are the best in the world and they do brilliant work. People should know about them and in luxury section there is a lot of demand for such works. I try my best through such initiatives, these craftsmen get their due share of recognition,” explains Tahiliani and adds that when it comes to bridal trousseau, Indians prefer to buy something from desi designer houses. “In luxury section, people might buy shoes from the West, but when it comes to apparels, they opt for desi. There are lots of experiments being done in bridal wear, but this season, I think it will be a fusion of Western cuts and Indian patterns that will rule. Weddings are a grand affair in India and people do not mind splurging on anything that they like. So my collection will also bring the best in luxury,” he adds.
Apart from these ultra chic designs, jackets with full sleeves, especially for women have also gained a lot of popularity. Says another designer Ankita Saaj, “Embroidered jackets and blouses with full or three-fourth sleeves not only look good but also protect you from the chilling breeze during winters.”